Category: Mahouts

  • My First Stop in Thailand

    June 14, 2010

    At the break of dawn I left a little piece of heaven called Boon Lott’s Elephant Sanctuary. Completely removed from the real world, this elephant paradise is a ray of hope for Asian elephants. I am thankful that I decided to stay a few days because that is the only way to take in everything that is Boon Lott’s.

    Inspired by the short life and death of a brave baby elephant named Boon Lott, this sanctuary has done something no other has. What they have created is a model for others to imitate and honestly I hope many do.

    It seems that it takes an “outsider” to break all the rules. It also appears that women are willing to work outside the box for elephant welfare. Thank goodness! The founders of Boon Lott’s share a love of elephants; one, a lifetime mahout, the other an English woman who championed for a baby elephant named Boon Lott. Together they are making a mark on the story which is elephant. Their future is bright.

    The facilities are designed with the elephant’s welfare and comfort in mind — well designed, functional, artistic and meticulously spotless. Kat and Anon have dedicated their lives and their every effort to elephants. The family atmosphere includes not only Kat, Anon and their children but the mahouts, their families and the elephants they have built their lives around. All of the elephants are rescues with staggering stories to tell.

    Even though Kat and Anon allow visitors an intimate perspective into the lives of the elephants, they do not exploit the elephants to do so. No rides are offered. The visitors are allowed to observe the elephants as they go about their day from dawn to dusk, starting with a morning bath, followed by a long walk to grazing and foraging habitat, afternoon swim time and another excursion to the forest, where the elephants are tethered overnight. The events of the day are not designed for the visitor; they are the elephant’s daily activities and the visitor is permitted to observe.

    The Sanctuary is young, not five years old yet, and already they are home to ten rescued elephants. The goal is to expand land holdings so that areas can be fenced, making it possible to release the elephants tether-free overnight. Fencing is a must in order to accomplish this goal in order to ensure the elephants’ safety.

    Their challenges are many but Kat and Anon have beaten the odds so far, creating a model sanctuary. I am honored to know these two amazing people and the talented team of forward-thinking mahouts and their families that make Boon Lott’s the special place that it is. The elephants that call Boon Lott’s home are lucky elephants indeed.

    I have high hopes for Kat and Anon. Much pressure will be on them over the next many years, to continue what they have started. Blazing this trail is hard but the progress that has already been made is astonishing. I know this team and the elephants they care for will help change the face of elephant management in Thailand.

  • Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

    Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

    May 30

    Finally…I have seen my first wild elephants. Two small herds: one with four females — two adults with two young calves; the other with two young calves, two adults and an adolescent tusker. They grazed on the tender grass growing in the speckled shade, protected from the direct sunlight by a mature canopy. Our presence went undetected as we, following the rules, did not stop our vehicle. It was a calming sight to behold.

    My time was spent meeting the forest authorities, including veterinarian Dr. Kalai, who toured me through the facility. The pride he has for his work was obvious. Knowledgeable and engaging, Dr. Kalai was a fountain of information about how the camp operates.

    It makes sense that the wealth of knowledge Asia’s experts possess about their elephants is unmatched by any other nation. Living with this indigenous species has provided Asia with a wealth of knowledge, not only of elephant life in the wild and captivity but, more recently, the challenge that is threatening the Asian elephant’s existence: human-elephant conflict. The forest personnel, professors, biologists and researchers I’ve met all show a genuine desire to find solutions before it is too late. So many bright and dedicated people unified to save this flagship species so important to its habit and fellow creatures, including mankind.

    This forest camp is expertly run from top to bottom. In the food prep area the camp elephants’ diets were listed on a huge board with the ingredients and supplements included in individual diets. I got my first look at the “cooked” diets I had heard so much about. Lined up in neat rows on the diet table were blocks of precooked foods recently removed from their moulds.  Some were topped with salt and other additives, sitting ready for the next stage in the process of elephant diet making.

    Sanctuary volunteers who tired of the endless produce chopping which dominated their service at the Sanctuary have nothing on the assistant mahouts in these camps. They are solely responsible for measuring, cooking, moulding and finally hand mixing each elephant’s diet, a process that demands precision and effort, not to mention repetition. Needless to say I was impressed.

    Only a few days before my visit an infant calf had to be rescued after being attacked by a crocodile. He survived the attack but his mother and family could not be located. Every effort possible is made to avoid bringing a calf into captivity but in this case there was no other choice.

    I observed firsthand that, indeed it takes a village, or should I say a tribe, to hand raise an elephant calf. The family responsible for this calf’s care had only recently turned over parenting of a young female calf they had raised for the past three years. They surely needed a break from the constant demand of a baby but took the new orphan in without question.

    Watching the parenting dance the family gracefully engaged in was mesmerizing. The father of the family was the calf’s primary caregiver. The matriarch prepared and provided the formula. The veterinarian directed veterinary care, which was provided by the veterinary technician. Each person has a role to play in the calf’s care. An older child assisted with tasks to support the calf’s care and medical treatment and a young granddaughter babysat, expertly I must say. They did not actually fawn over the calf but provided the security he needed. So young, he was obviously unable to understand his circumstances. Relying on survival instinct he followed around after a warm body. I am told that in a few weeks he will differentiate between the warm bodies but for now any warm body will do.

    His wounds were deep and treatment was painful. Throughout, his entire family showed care and gentleness, their skills expert, their compassion palatable. My heart went out to this little guy, who was sort of walking in a fog but, if he had to be separate from his mother and herd, he could not have been in better hands.

  • Final Day in Assam

    May 22

    Yesterday was my last day with Dr. K. K. Sarma and his health camp team: Kalita (elephant owner and management expert), Manav (assistant vet to Dr. Sarma) and the ever-inspiring elephants of Assam.

    Interestingly enough, I find myself somewhat desensitized to my foreign surrounding. That is, until I get into a vehicle, but that is a story for another time. At all other times I feel no borders between us. I am fortunate that my companions speak such fluent English; they can’t say the same for my Assamese. My attempt to casually respond in conversation brings polite smiles or confused looks. Everyone has been very kind to accept my effort to communicate in their native tongue.

    The two privately owned elephants we visited today had recently returned from logging in a nearby province. Well, not so nearby. One of the elephants, 65-year-old Jaymala, walked more than 150 miles in a few days to return to her owner’s home. She was a bit underweight from her labors and the walk, resulting in a strong tongue lashing for the Phandis from both Jaymala’s owner and Dr. Sarma.

    Apparently the Phandis had pushed to get home after completing the logging job in order to be with his family. Although one can understand his desire to return home, he was reminded that while employed as Jaymala’s Phandis his first and foremost responsibility is to her welfare. A discussion between Dr. Sarma and the owner followed, focused on the challenges of finding good staff. I soon realized that no matter how different our customs, staffing issues appear to be universal.

    In addition to her regular Phandis, Jaymala has a young mahout in training. I believe he falls into the category of Ghansi; the grass cutter and assistant to the Phandis. He could not be older than thirteen years but moved with confidence while attending to Jaymala. It was obvious that she was very comfortable with this boy, standing millimeters from him as he prepared her daily ration of ceremoniously-folded banana leaves dipped in a rice mixture.

    The rhythm of the food preparation was mesmerizing. Focused but unhurried, the Ghansi cut a long banana stock in half and chopped off the end. Precisely driving his multi-purpose knife a few inches into the end of the stock, he then used the curved knife to pry the stock in half lengthwise. With a thud, the knife was driven into a nearby stump, freeing his hands to fold the banana stock, including the large feathery leaves, much the same way kuchi is folded. The stock was folded over onto itself and the leaves wrapped around the stock. Then the organic bundle was dipped into a bucket of liquid rice mixture and placed ever so gently into Jaymala’s mouth.

    Calm and comfortable, Jaymala chewed as her Ghansi prepared her next ration, opening her mouth as he completed the process of making the next bundle. When the boy became distracted by the visiting veterinary team, Jaymala would reach out attempting to take a banana leaf herself. Obviously she knew this was not allowed and readily accepted the Ghansi’s verbal instruction to leave it alone.

    My observation was that Jaymala had trained her Ghansi quite well. When he slowed his process all she had to do was attempt to help herself and he would get right back to work. I am unaware of the length of time devoted to this process but it went on for the entire time we were there and would continue until the heaping pile of fresh cut banana leaves and bucket of rice mixture were consumed.

    Later we met up with 55-year-old Anguronala in the town of Goalbara. She was on military grounds, behind a guarded gate, grazing peacefully when we arrived. Recently she had been brought to this area, hired as a koonki to drive away a problematic wild bull that had killed a couple of villagers. The koonki represents a second chance for wild elephants who cause damage in human settlements. In many cases the koonki can drive the wild elephants, including a bull, away, which results in their lives being spared. If a problematic elephant cannot be driven off, the government has only two options, both equally unacceptable: capture or kill.

    Anguronala showed the wear and tear consistent with logging elephants, including an old injury that resulted in a deformity to her back leg. A large log had rolled into the leg, causing a fracture below the knee. I saw a few other elephants with this same deformity, which reminded me of the injury that left Shirley crippled while she was performing in the circus. In each case the crippling injury could have been avoided if the elephant lived in a natural setting and was not forced to engage in harmful commercial activities.

    So many logging elephants have such injuries from being struck by heavy logs while working. Of course the injuries are avoidable — the answer is not to log — but the owners claim that the elephants have to work. Believe me, I am brainstorming with colleagues to come up with ways to help elephants out of this highly dangerous activity. It is a huge challenge but there are many experts who are working to find a solution.

  • One Elephant at a Time

    May 19

    Yesterday’s camp left me feeling conflicted. These elephants, denied a natural life, yet living within their home range country, seem to be the ultimate in contradictions.

    Elephants represent so much in one being: wild animal, god, beast of burden and fellow earth resident. Coming to terms with the reality of their lives, the lives of all elephants in captivity worldwide, challenges me.

    The Indian government has enacted laws to protect elephants against mistreatment. Regardless, elephants continue to be used for activities that can cause them physical injury. Their godly status does not protect them from servitude. The contradictions are so profound that I find it difficult to find peace with the realities of their existence.

    The human population in this country has exploded. Politics and long-held traditional beliefs fuel the continuation of current elephant management. Long-held traditions could have serious implications for the life and future of one of this country’s most revered and endangered indigenous residents. The beauty of the land and animals stands in sharp contrast to the cruelty man is capable of.

    Yesterday I chastised myself for not doing more when I observed a heavy-handed Phandis treating his elephant harshly. Remaining silent was not a possibility so I pointed out the cruelty to Dr. Sarma, asking if he could justify such treatment. He could not and immediately requested that the supervisor reprimand the Phandis. A problem existed: the Phandis was newly appointed by a high-ranking official. To criticize the Phandis would surely result in problems for the supervisor.

    The cruelty ceased but, by being witness to it, I left the camp feeling in some way responsible. Dr. Sarma told me later that he spoke with the head warden to inform him of the Phandis’ actions and assured me action would be taken. So today I set out for our next health camp with a heavy heart. I could not get Phulmati’s resigned face out of my mind. Such a nurturing and good-natured elephant. Her plight haunted me.

    Lost in thought, I was caught by surprise to see our first patient, Rupalim, grazing off the side of the highway. Young and beautiful, Rupalim is close to ten years old. She lost her mother when she was four and is the pride of her owner. After completing the road-side physical examination and inoculations, Phandis and Rupalim maneuvered across the busy highway and headed up the muddy hill toward home.

    Many kilometers later we found Geeta, Manimala and Bijulee also waiting for us on the roadside, but in a rural area with little traffic. Fresh banana trees were piled in front of the girls, who munched contently. A small crowd of locals had already gathered. Once the veterinary team assembled their equipment and supplies, the crowd grew.

    Initial visual examination by the vet team caused discussion in low whispers. I did not have to understand the language to get the gist that the vet team was concerned about something.

    In my unofficial capacity as team photographer, I began taking photos of the overall condition of the elephants. I quickly saw what was causing the concern. Manimala had a significantly deep gash across her tail, which the Phandis claimed was caused by her rubbing on bamboo. I listened to the unbelievable claim and knew today was not the day to expect me to keep quiet in the face of injustice.

    I zoomed my camera in close to get a photo of the gash across Manimala’s tail and found several other lesser cuts that crisscrossed down the length of her tail. The smaller ones were superficial and uniform, but proof that bamboo was not the cause of her injury. Dr. Sarma agreed as I pointed out my findings and I stated my opinion about the cause of the injury.

    All attention was on Manimala who continued to tear apart the fibrous banana tree in long strips and place them in her mouth. She appeared unaware that the focus was on her. As I formulated how I would handle this delicate situation, because I definitely would not keep quiet, Dr. Sarma informed me that although the Phandis did not admit to causing the wound, he had been fired on the spot.

    The breath I was holding expelled. I realized that Dr. Sarma was as angered as I about Manimala’s treatment. Without prompting he said, “Such a lovely and gentle elephant, how could anyone harm her?”

    Cruelty to elephants is illegal in India. The Phandis could have been arrested and charged for the offense but not without firsthand evidence. The way to ensure that he could no longer hurt Manimala was to simply fire him. Unfortunately, nothing prevents him from getting another job caring for elephants.

    Later, in the car we discussed the ignorant and cruel treatment by some of the Phandis. The entire team voiced sincere disdain for such treatment. A true solution for the problem of elephant cruelty is to elevate elephant management standards, educate the trainers working with elephants and enforce the law.

    I may be half a world away from home but the problems and solutions for elephants in many captive situations are similar. Fixing the problem in one place can act as a prototype for solutions worldwide.

    I slept better knowing that action was taken to protect Manimala. Hopefully the remaining Phandis learned that their jobs would also be in jeopardy if they treated their elephant in a cruel manner.

    The two situations where I observed elephants being handled in a heavy-handed and cruel manner seems outside of the norm. By and large the forest elephants experience a high level of professional care and management. It seems that the elephants used for logging are the ones most often treated cruelly.

  • Each Government Forest Camp and Wilderness Sanctuary is Different

    Each Government Forest Camp and Wilderness Sanctuary is Different

    May 18

    Today’s health camp was held at Pabitora, a wilderness sanctuary where nine elephants reside. National parks and wilderness sanctuaries are government-run and hold different classifications, with national parks holding a higher ranking. In both cases the animals are protected and tourism is not aggressively commercially marketed .

    At 16 square kilometers, Pabitora is considered small but it protects the largest concentration of Indian rhino in the world. Their renowned breeding success is enhanced thanks to the cooperation of the local people; poaching is not a problem. The landscape is unbelievably beautiful with a year-round clean river running through it; by all accounts Pabitora is an Eden.

    The elephants were beginning to gather when we arrived. Some had just finished their morning bath while others where just taking the plunge. Bishwajit stuck close to his mother as she carefully maneuvered the river bank entering the shallows. At four months of age Bishwajit is already an expert swimmer, resembling a 500-pound bobbing cork.

    Phulmati is an experienced mother, calm and confident. She never lost sight of her lively calf as she gracefully waded around him. When she lowered herself in the shallows to allow her Phandis (lead mahout) to scrub her skin with a fistful of vegetation, little Bishwajit took full advantage. His comical play included climbing on his ever-patient mother’s face and over her head, concluding with a belly flop off the other side. In between submarine dives Bishwajit would surface and extend his tiny trunk, making contact with his mother’s face every thirty seconds or so.

    Bohagi, Phulmati’s first calf, is already five years old and recently completed her formal training. I looked closely to see if I could find the scars I was confident she would be wearing as result of the training process but to my surprise there were none.

    By the time Bishwajit and his mother emerged from the river, the camp was well underway. The males here outnumbered the females six to three. Two of the males, Naga and Rudra, were recently moved to the sanctuary from the Guwahati Zoo. Even though, in theory, the move is in their best interest as now they live in a natural habitat with access to clean water and live vegetation, their initial introduction was problematic. Bikaram, the sanctuary’s resident mature male was not impressed with the new arrivals and was extremely aggressive toward them. Determining if and how captive males should be introduced to semi-wild environments already occupied by mature males is a subject that will need to be studied to ensure the welfare of all concerned.

    Each elephant has a Phandis, their trainer and caregiver, who attends to their needs, takes them on anti-poaching patrols and ensures they spend many hours each day in prime grazing and foraging habitat. I know we would love to think of these elephants as being free to wander at will and do as they please but that is not possible. The parks are not fenced and human settlements encircle the national parks and wildlife sanctuaries. In the recent past some captive elephants have been released into the wild only to pay a horrific price when they wandered outside the boundaries of their protection and become a pest to the locals. Of the options, including illegal logging, tourist safaris and unemployment, which can be disastrous for their welfare, it would appear that these elephants are in the best situation currently available to them.

    Consistent with Dr. Sarma’s other camps, the elephants received a thorough physical examination, inoculations, fecal exams and deworming when needed. A large abscess on Phulmati’s back right leg was the biggest issue of the day.  Unfortunately for Phulmati, some time back a veterinarian had administered a high volume of drug at a single injection site, resulting in an infection. Dr. Sarma had been called in to address the problem and was pleased at the condition of the wound since his last visit. While dressing the wound he remarked that it was healing nicely.

    Bishwajit was full of himself, desperate for someone to play with. He figure-eighted under his mom’s belly and around her legs as she patiently accepted her abscess treatment. Cleaning out the wound and placing new dressing inside took about 15 minutes, during which time the ever-active calf made a nuisance of himself. At his tender age he knows no authority except his mother, thank goodness for that. And in the case of his mom, like most experienced elephant moms, Bishwajit could do no wrong. When he found that the humans would not engage in elephant games he targeted a nearby dog, promptly chasing it off.

    During the camp, all the elephants, Phandis and mahouts mingled around the site. Only after all the elephants had completed a physical examination and treatment did the exit process begin. A seemingly discarded piece of burlap was silently grasped and effortlessly flung by an elephant over her head to the waiting Phandis. Serving as a seat cushion of sorts, the rider placed the burlap just behind the elephant’s shoulder blades. He settled comfortably on the burlap, draped his legs behind her ears and tucked his feet on the inside of the neck rope.  Each Phandis signaled to his elephant in foot-language and the elephants responded. In a synchronized dance they fanned out in different directions, all leading to the same place, the forest.

    Now the elephants will spend hours grazing and foraging and later in the day they will patrol their home. Protecting the endangered rhinos is their job. Considering the alternatives for elephants living in captivity in Asia, theirs is a relatively good life.

    bath time before health camp examination
  • So Much To Learn

    May 17

    I have spent the past several days traveling with Dr. K.K. Sarma, Ph.D., and his team of skilled veterinarians, assistants and driver, to various elephant health camps in Assam. I have seen and learned so much. The experience gives me hope for the elephants in this region.

    Dr. Sarma is an Associate Professor in the Department of Surgery and Radiology at the College of Veterinary Science, AAU Khanapara, Guwahati, Assam, India. Spending time with such a dedicated professional has caused me to realize that although we may be spread across this planet, elephant caregivers share the same mind, the same vision: a more humane and healthy existence for elephants.

    Years ago, I held a hardline opinion against providing assistance for elephants held in captivity in Asia. But several years ago my opinion changed as I came to believe that regardless of how I feel personally about the deprived life captivity provides, elephants suffer in captivity and require our assistance. A person who influenced my change of mind was Mr. A. Christy Williams, who at the time was completing his studies focused on wild elephant populations in the Northern National Parks of India.  After being much impressed by Christy’s work I decided that The Elephant Sanctuary should do what we could to initiate a pilot program to assist privately owned elephants in need in Asia. We collaborated with Christy and later Dr. Sarma to create a Mobile Veterinary Care program in Assam.

    This program has been supported by the Sanctuary for years. It has been seriously successful thanks to Dr. Sarma’s expertise and dedication to elephant health care. You can always tell a true elephant devotee — they will drop everything at a moment’s notice, at great cost to themselves and their bank account, to assist a needy elephant.

    About five years ago, Christy informed me that Dr. Sarma’s camps were increasing in demand. He was traveling great distances on a regular basis and Christy felt that a valuable addition to the project would be a reliable vehicle. Not only was Dr. Sarma not being paid for his services, he used his own vehicle for travel. Christy wondered if the Sanctuary would consider entering into a formal agreement to support Dr. Sarma’s work for another five years.

    This request came at a time when the Sanctuary was experiencing increased support as result of the National Geographic documentary that featured the reunion of Jenny and Shirley. This proposed commitment by the Sanctuary would require a large upfront expenditure to purchase a four-wheel drive vehicle for the mobile veterinary care work. I saw this commitment as a way of paying forward the support we were experiencing. There was no question in my mind that the Sanctuary was well advised to increase our support of Dr. Sarma’s important service.

    In addition to setting up elephant health camps, where elephants arrive en mass at a predetermined location, Dr. Sarma tends to individual elephants whenever called upon.  Over the 20 plus years that Dr. Sarma has provided free veterinary care to the elephants of Assam, he has developed a well-deserved reputation. His work is extensive; he assists as many as 400 elephants in this region, resulting in a wealth of experience. On any occasion possible, time off or after hours, you will find Dr. Sarma in pursuit of better health care for the elephants of Assam. Teaching at the Veterinary College is his profession but caring for the elephants of Assam is Dr. Sarma’s passion.

    Attending three days of scheduled camps and a bull recovering from partial paralysis of the left side of his body has meant driving great distances. From Guwahati we drove to our first camp in Lamari, then Satsimalu, and then Biswanath Chariali in the Sonitar District. Driving through the countryside of Assam plays tricks on me because it looks and feels just like the landscape of Hohenwald, Tennessee. This elephant country with its lush vegetation, humidity, streams, rivers, pastures and forest lands is a mirror image of The Elephant Sanctuary. I do wonder how I found the pearl of place in America that so resembles and perfectly fits the needs of Asian elephants.

    This past week I have been fortunate to document Dr. Sarma and his team attending to forty-four elephants…so far: calves, datals (tusker), maikis (mikee) females, and makhanas (mock-naw) naturally tuskless males, ranging from a few months of age to 60 years. The camps are well organized, well attended and attract more than the elephants it is organized to help. The locals come out in droves and, unlike any public gathering I have ever observed involving elephants, all of the bystanders are respectful, quiet and reserved.

    The level of respect shown to the elephants, their mahouts and the veterinary team was an eye opener for me. Imagine close to 20 elephants, many of them mature males, gathered in an area half the size of a football field. Each elephant is assigned a number. When their number is called, the elephant and mounted mahout jockey into place. Other elephants, some riderless, left untethered and munching on cut banana trees, shift to make room for the next patient.

    As result of the elephant gathering, a sea of local people congregated to watch the open-air clinic. At first I was concerned about the crowd of people but quickly noticed that they respectfully keep their distance. Not once did a person, adult or child, need to be reprimanded for getting too close, becoming a nuisance or teasing an elephant. This phenomenon alone caused me to look on the people of Assam in admiration.

    In this culture the elephant is a god, which may begin to explain the respectful attitude I observed.  But it is more than that. As time passed some of the village children and men would move in closer, especially when an elephant reclined on its side to receive an injection or have the foot pads examined. Crowded around in complete silence, their curiosity was palatable. Although shoulder to shoulder, watching intensely, they were never in the way.

    At the camps a full body examination is conducted. Eyes are checked, fecals done and any wounds or problems discussed and treated. In the case of logging elephants, the mahouts provide details about any trauma or accidents that their elephant may have sustained during the course of their work. The mahouts are very engaged in the discussion about their elephant’s health and appear completely receptive to recommendations made by Dr. Sarma and his team.

    Surprisingly, contrary to what I had expected to find, the elephants appear healthy, in good weight, calm and cared for. I saw little of the scarring and wounds I feared I would see. According to Dr. Sarma, the biggest problem he encounters is parasites. Thanks to the trust he has developed with the mahouts and owners, Dr. Sarma is allowed to provide worming medicine, inoculations for tetanus, Vitamin B shots and mineral supplements.

    At one of the camps, three of the elephants were pregnant. The Phandis of these mothers-to-be proudly posed for a photograph, displaying the bag of mineral supplement provided by Dr. Sarma. Even though each man remained silent, their faces could not hide the pride they felt for their elephant.

    The elephants of Assam have an obvious advantage over elephants living in captivity in other areas of the world. These elephants, although in human care, live in wilderness areas. They spend the majority of their time grazing and foraging on natural vegetation, walk and sleep on natural substrate and are sheltered from the sun by the forest canopy. With the exception of the privately owned elephants who are taken to neighboring countries for logging, the elephants of Assam are not overworked. Most are used for anti-poaching patrols of the national parks to protect not only rhinos but other treasured and endangered animals.

    Participating in Dr. Sarma’s health camps have caused me to consider what more we can do to help him help the elephants of Assam. I am thinking that a small laboratory would be a welcome asset. It would not need to be lavish; just the basics would enable Dr. Sarma and his team to do even more. Fecals are done in the field but blood must be transported back to Guwahati to be processed. Given his own lab, I believe Dr. Sarma would be able to conduct additional non-invasive testing in a timely manner, all under his direct supervision.

    When I get access to internet where I can upload photos I will.

    Namaste

  • Mahouts and Kuchi

    Mahouts and Kuchi

    May 2

    I thought you would be interested to learn that by tradition each elephant in Nepal has three handlers. They are the phanet (fawn-it) the lead handler, the pachuwa (paw tsue-wa) second to the lead and the mahout, an apprentice. Each position has its own specific responsibilities. The phanet helps to oversee the community of elephant handlers so he often remains at the stables, leaving the pachuwa and mahout to take care of the elephant’s daily needs.

    At first light, the elephant, pachuwa and mahout head into the forest to collect elephant grass, enough for making kuchi plus a full day’s fodder for the elephant. Both handlers ride atop the elephant’s bare back, balancing effortlessly, barefoot and sometimes holding an umbrella to shade themselves. Upon their return they work cooperatively to make the kuchi and clean the stable area.

    Two handlers return with fodder while others make kuchi

    The kuchi is a traditional food ball made by folding the surprisingly supple elephant grass into the shape of a bowl. Rice, salt, and molasses are packed into the bowl. Other supplements can be added to the kuchi if the elephant has a special dietary requirement. Another name for the kuchi is dana, meaning gift, which explains the ritual involved in creating the fresh kuchi everyday.

    Filling the bowl

    After packing the bowl, the grass is folded over the top. Working two strands of grass in opposite directions, the bowl is tightly wrapped. After securely enclosing the bowl, the ends of the grass are tied in a twisting motion then tucked under the wrapping like a knot. Each adult elephant receives approximately 90 kuchi each evening.

    Tying the kuchi ball with elephant grass

    I could not resist, I had to try my hand at kuchi making. I love a challenge and really, it was quite fun.  First you have to position yourself as comfortably as possible on the ground, with one leg bent so you can use your ankle as support to bend the grass.  Next you follow a very defined technique of shaping the grass, first folding the grass and then wrapping it around itself until you have created a grass bowl. Making the bowl is not as easy as it looks.

    Although I pride myself on being good with my hands, I must admit that the contents of my first kuchi fell out of the bottom. But I was determined and after a few tries my kuchi bowls were holding their contents.

    The mahout was very patient with me even though I was slowing him down

    I am sure the elephants and the mahouts found humor in my amateur kuchi making, but the elephants ate them just fine.

    Kuchi time!
  • Down by the River

    Down by the River

    April 30

    This morning I followed the elephants down to the river for their morning bath. The sheer joy of immersing in water is universal with elephants. It gave me goose bumps to see them so relaxed, splashing water, throwing trunkfuls over their backs and drinking freely.

    When I am standing, quietly observing the Sauraha elephants, I can’t help but notice similarities between this group of elephants and my girls. There is one who is Sissy’s twin in looks and temperament and another that is a younger version of Billie-Sue. This elephant caught my eye the first day I met her, not only because she looked so much like Billie-Sue but also because she seems very insecure, much like Billie-Sue when she was first rescued.

    Sissy’s look-a-like!

    My most memorable time this morning was when one of the elephants “accidentally” dumped her handler into the water. I of course was silently cheering for the elephant as the young man tried to maneuver in the shallow water to remount his elephant.

    The elephant took full advantage of her temporary freedom, turning her hind end to the boy each time he got close. I don’t know exactly what he was saying but he was not happy that the elephant was not responding. His commands got louder and louder, his embarrassment at her outsmarting him was obvious.

    Ignoring his attempts to control her, the elephant continued to cover herself with trunkfuls of the cool river water, until another man appeared. He yelled a few commands to the elephant and climbed onto her back while she was still in the river. She continued to play, trying to ignore him as well but it was obvious that she respected him more than the boy.

    The phanit was aware of being watched and thankfully did not physically punish the elephant. Instead he made her go through a series of repetitive commands like turning from side to side and lying down in the water. She was not willing to give it over right away and did a “Minnie stunt,” dropping her head to the river bottom with her rear and one hind leg sticking up in the air.

    The handler was obviously her phanit. Although she was making it difficult to stay on top of her back, he succeeded. He actually laughed, which relieved my concern that she had gone too far and would pay for her disobedience. I exhaled, realizing only then that I had been holding my breath.

    The pachuwa stood looking dejected on the river bank. No doubt he had just learned some valuable training lessons and, hopefully, a deeper respect for the intelligence of his elephant.

    A young pachuwa fell off his elephant

    The reality is that no matter the amount of academic training a person has, practical experience is essential in order to develop an expertise with elephants. The number of different elephants and situations a handler is exposed to is key to developing skills. Each lesson an elephant teaches the handler is a building block for the next lesson in the unending series of lessons that brings valuable insight into who elephants are.

    I am doing my best to understand, without judgment, the traditions held in Sauraha regarding elephants and handlers. The more I learn about the traditions, the better prepared I will be to effect some degree of change. The elephant owners and handlers are receptive, which gives me cause to be optimistic. Change can occur, it will just take time.

  • Foot Care

    Foot Care

    April 26

    As result of the owners’ cooperation and participation in the Elephant Health Camp, a thorough examination was done on every elephant’s foot. The sheer number of elephants was a blessing, enabling the team to determine patterns, both positive and not, regarding the condition and wear of the elephants’ feet. Collectively their feet were in good condition.

    Foot pad and nail overgrowth is a common condition in captive elephants. Trimming tools vary in size and style but the goal is universal: maintain elephant’s feet to ensure even wear of both the pads and the toe nails and prevent overgrowth. The challenge is to not over-trim.

    When foot pads are trimmed excessively, the elephant will bruise the bottom of the foot. If repeated, the bruised areas can become infected. Once an infection becomes chronic it is possible for the condition to advance to osteomyelitis, a disease that, to date, has not been cured in elephants.

    Having the proper foot trimming tools is essential, so the other day we paid a visit to the local iron worker. He listened intently as our translator explained exactly what we wanted.  He nodded his head, asked questions and finally agreed to create a prototype and have it delivered to us the next morning. True to his word the custom-made hoof trimming tool arrived as promised; it was perfect.  He did such a great job on the first prototype that we gave him a second and ordered five sets.

    Soon we will meet with the owners and mahouts to provide a workshop on foot care. Judging by the receptivity and interest shown by the owners and mahouts, I have no doubt that the foot care workshop will be well received.

    Everything we do and everything we provide to the owners and mahouts is free of charge. At this point it is most important that the owners buy into the idea of change. By providing these tools and our expertise free of charge, we are helping to further our welfare goal. By working cooperatively with the owners and mahouts the elephants will benefit.

    Feeling the need to make a contribution to this effort I signed International Elephant Aid up as the underwriter for the workshop. IEA will cover the cost of the tools, which will include supplies for foot soaks and foot trimming. I will donate my time and services to give the workshop and tutor the mahouts on proper elephant foot care.

    I am so excited about this component of Dr. Mikota’s work at Chitwan National Park. Fortunately the owners and mahouts are receptive to our offer of assistance. They appear eager to learn whatever they can for the benefit of their elephants.

    Custom hoof knives created by the local iron worker
  • Last Day of the Health Camp

    Last Day of the Health Camp

    Close to 50 elephants participated in Dr. Mikota’s elephant health camp. Today was the final day, at least for the elephant examinations. Over the next several days samples will continue to be processed, with results reported to the owners of the elephants.

    This is precedent-setting work. The owners voluntarily participated — enthusiastically, in fact. Today one of the proud owners provided information about his recently acquired elephant, complete with physical and behavioral information.

    When one of the elephants became nervous about the exam, another mahout mounted on a young elephant  brought his elephant close to “her friend” with favorable results. The nervous elephant immediately settled down. The younger elephant touched her friend around her mouth and stomach in an obviously reassuring way. Their display of  friendship was tender and the mahout’s sensitivity was refreshing.

    Our work is not done. While samples are being processed, records made and treatments prescribed, Dr. Mikota will pursue other community-related projects that will enhance elephant welfare while benefiting the community. As soon as these projects get the official go-ahead I will report on them. They are all very exciting.

    Sauraha is a close knit community. Even though tourism is the backbone of their financial support, the daily activity of earning a living and caring for their families is the activity that is observed each day, from dawn until dusk.

    These are a happy people. Their connection to mother earth is the common thread that ties them together. Busy building new homes, resorts, replenishing dirt for planting, tending to the rice paddies, planting young plants that will later feed their family and tending to their animals is what occupies their daylight hours. The heat and absence of air conditioning brings them out onto rustic porches and stoops bordering the earthen roads after dusk. Children chase each other through the darkness while dogs cavort freely, homeless or not. The heat is forever present but a lightness fills the air. You are one with the community with a simple but genuine head nod and namaste, which brings a beaming smile to a previously serious face. All is one; all is well with the world.

  • Elephant Care International’s Sauraha Elephant Health Camp

    Elephant Care International’s Sauraha Elephant Health Camp

    April 21

    Elephant Care International’s Sauraha Elephant Health Camp has been a well-received service for privately owned elephants living outside Chitwan National Park. ECI’s efforts to gain the trust of the thirty-something private owners, who collectively own nearly 50 elephants, has proven successful. The owners are all participating in this health camp, a testament to ECI’s efforts.

    On this second day of the camp, seven elephants showed up for examination. How fortunate I am to be involved. The veterinarians, technicians, mahouts and elephants flowed together in a synchronized dance, collecting throat cultures, nasal drip, blood, urine and fecal samples, body temperature, respiration and pulse. Translators helped bridge the language gap, making the process more efficient.

    The elephants, all Kali (female) so far, have responded to the camp individually, and collectively have demonstrated receptivity to the experience. The reality is that most, if not all, of these girls have never before walked onto a portable scale nor provided the many samples requested of them. They have all responded incredibly well.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    It did not take long for the mahouts to understand that the ECI team prefers that they practice patience with their elephants. For some, the concept of a gentler approach had never been considered but they responded favorably.

    Not surprisingly, the mahouts demonstrated a capacity for innovation when met with the challenge of collecting samples. Some of the younger mahouts responded to sample collection requests with wide eyes and a noncommittal head tilt accompanied by a somewhat nervous giggle.

    The more seasoned mahouts listened intently to the translated directions, then immediately set out to accomplish the task. It soon became evident that the more advanced mahouts reveled in flaunting their superior skills. The resulting competition between mahouts proved beneficial. Overall, the elephants are in good shape. None are overweight. The ankus is not used to pull and push the elephant so hook wounds are not an issue.

    Getting a throat culture with an extra-long Q-tip

    Living on natural substrate and in an appropriate climate has benefited the elephants greatly. Improving the standard of living for these and other elephants in captivity begins with education and improved health care. The elephants of Sauraha, their owners and mahouts have embarked on a journey destined to change their lives for the better. I am so thankful to be a part of the process.

  • The Flow of Life

    April 20

    Activity begins early in Sauraha, not surprising since as the day unfolds the temperature rises to a sweltering level. At sunrise the air has a refreshing coolness about it. The community comes to life as goats and water buffalo are taken from their night quarters to grazing areas. Upside down handmade woven baskets are righted, allowing the contents — live chickens — free access to hunt and peck at their leisure.

    The NTNC elephants silently head out of their personal stables, mahout on board, to collect the following day’s supply of fresh-cut elephant grass. The privately owned elephants adhere to a different routine and a different diet. Not permitted inside the national park, the privately owned elephants eat grass that is cut seasonally in bulk and stacked, forming a hut-type structure next to their mahout’s house. This grass is stored for months at a time, much like the baled hay fed to elephants in zoos and circuses worldwide.

    By contrast, elephants owned by the government and NTNC, a NGO (nongovernmental organization) have access to the forest areas, where grass is plentiful. They collect their own fresh-cut grass daily. This activity has many benefits, including that the elephants eat high-quality good-tasting fodder and spend hours engaging with their natural habitat.

    Life in captivity is restrictive but access to home range forests brings these elephants closer to their roots and provides them with an opportunity to walk, forage and bathe in the environment they are adapted to. If elephants are to be maintained in captivity, keeping them in range countries definitely has benefits.