Down by the River

April 30

This morning I followed the elephants down to the river for their morning bath. The sheer joy of immersing in water is universal with elephants. It gave me goose bumps to see them so relaxed, splashing water, throwing trunkfuls over their backs and drinking freely.

When I am standing, quietly observing the Sauraha elephants, I can’t help but notice similarities between this group of elephants and my girls. There is one who is Sissy’s twin in looks and temperament and another that is a younger version of Billie-Sue. This elephant caught my eye the first day I met her, not only because she looked so much like Billie-Sue but also because she seems very insecure, much like Billie-Sue when she was first rescued.

Sissy’s look-a-like!

My most memorable time this morning was when one of the elephants “accidentally” dumped her handler into the water. I of course was silently cheering for the elephant as the young man tried to maneuver in the shallow water to remount his elephant.

The elephant took full advantage of her temporary freedom, turning her hind end to the boy each time he got close. I don’t know exactly what he was saying but he was not happy that the elephant was not responding. His commands got louder and louder, his embarrassment at her outsmarting him was obvious.

Ignoring his attempts to control her, the elephant continued to cover herself with trunkfuls of the cool river water, until another man appeared. He yelled a few commands to the elephant and climbed onto her back while she was still in the river. She continued to play, trying to ignore him as well but it was obvious that she respected him more than the boy.

The phanit was aware of being watched and thankfully did not physically punish the elephant. Instead he made her go through a series of repetitive commands like turning from side to side and lying down in the water. She was not willing to give it over right away and did a “Minnie stunt,” dropping her head to the river bottom with her rear and one hind leg sticking up in the air.

The handler was obviously her phanit. Although she was making it difficult to stay on top of her back, he succeeded. He actually laughed, which relieved my concern that she had gone too far and would pay for her disobedience. I exhaled, realizing only then that I had been holding my breath.

The pachuwa stood looking dejected on the river bank. No doubt he had just learned some valuable training lessons and, hopefully, a deeper respect for the intelligence of his elephant.

A young pachuwa fell off his elephant

The reality is that no matter the amount of academic training a person has, practical experience is essential in order to develop an expertise with elephants. The number of different elephants and situations a handler is exposed to is key to developing skills. Each lesson an elephant teaches the handler is a building block for the next lesson in the unending series of lessons that brings valuable insight into who elephants are.

I am doing my best to understand, without judgment, the traditions held in Sauraha regarding elephants and handlers. The more I learn about the traditions, the better prepared I will be to effect some degree of change. The elephant owners and handlers are receptive, which gives me cause to be optimistic. Change can occur, it will just take time.

Comments

11 responses to “Down by the River”

  1. sherryheim Avatar
    sherryheim

    You are right that it will take time. Elephants as work/income animals is deeply ingrained into the culture there. You have had the pleasure of seeing both sides of elephant life, and in doing so, you have come to realize that no elephant should be subject to slavery or abuse by humans. I am sure it is hard not to judge, but life where you are now, is so much different than in the peaceful valley in Tennessee, where elephants rule, not humans, at least up to this point. It must be both touching and difficult to see elephants who remind you of your girls, so many golden threads still binding you to those you have rescued and to your home. I am glad you got to see the elephants spending some time enjoying themselves. Perhaps it helps them, to be surrounded by other elephants in this way, which though still a dominated situation, not anything like the chains that elephants wear in circus or the confinement of zoos. Thank you for the beautiful pictures. You made me both smile and get misty-eyed today. Be safe, Carol, and enjoy your time with these elephants. There is opportunity for change and a promise for a better life for elephants, through the work that you are doing.

  2. Sandra G Avatar
    Sandra G

    Quite often when I read your descriptions of elephant behaviour it reminds me of my most beloved mule. He also bonds deeply, learns quickly and has a fine tuned sense of humor. I was pleased to read that some Pachuwa can also appreciate a good joke.
    Thanks so much for taking us along on this wonderful journey.

  3. Cora Avatar

    Oh my! That must have been so hard for you to watch. The photo of Sissy’s Asian sister is beautiful. Thank you for sharing. Namaste!

  4. Beth Avatar
    Beth

    Ahhh, bath time for the elephants! I know how much they love that so….you can’t help but think of your girls when you watch this new group of elephants. I know Dulary loves her water, too (again, thank you for giving her a better life, always will remember that, always) That elephant really is a Sissy look-a-like! Love the photos, Carol. Funny about that elephant “losing” her handler in the water, lol. Can just picture that…your words bring it all in. So true about practical.. hands on experience in learning the ways of these elephants. People can read read read but they are only printed words…it is the experience and day to day doings that you learn more. You are learning….we are learning…thank you.

  5. SueTexas Avatar
    SueTexas

    Perhaps I am mistaken, but that looks like the same elephant stepping on the scales below. I am not the best at identifying individuals. I could always recognize Tarra, and Delhi, because of her pretty pink nose. I am so glad the man didn’t punish her. It seems he realizes elephants also have a sense of humor!

    1. Carol Avatar

      Yes she looks a lot like Sissy and her look-alike, but that is not the same elephant. Many of the privately owned elephants in Sauraha have the same characteristics, similar features, conformation and coloration.

  6. vjmyers Avatar
    vjmyers

    How come the handlers stay on top of the elephants and not let them naturally bath & play?
    I am sure you all most turned blue holding your breath knowing you would have to hold your tonque if she was punished. How do they “punish”? The education you have to offer these people will be such a great asset to the elephants.
    You being there is a Great Ele-Blessing!

  7. treehugger Avatar
    treehugger

    🙂 I bathed with girls at ENP …everybody acts out when they can..haha

  8. sabineghislainezell@yahoo.com Avatar

    I am glad the ele was not punished for having “fun” with her handler. I have read in the past that elephants have a great sense of humor.

  9. Ele-aunt Avatar
    Ele-aunt

    What are the privately owned elephants used for, what kind of work and labor?

    1. Carol Avatar

      the government elephants rotate between patrolling the national park to protect wildlife and providing safari rides for tourists in the jungle (four riders at a time). The privately owned elephants are not allowed in the jungle but give safari rides in the community forest, a jungle and grass land area designated for use by the local community. All safari rides help to support the protection of the national forest.

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